tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82836268787222731782024-03-12T19:09:32.739-07:00Gamefowl 101 - Everything You Want To Know About GamefowlsGamefowl101 - Information about gamefowls, specially breeding programs/methods, keeping and conditioning, treatment for some gamefowl's sickness and diseases, gamefowl management and etc.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-13757782842289293202016-03-21T21:09:00.001-07:002017-01-28T14:46:06.268-08:00Breeding Program For Gamefowl: Ranging Program<h2>
<b>Ranging Program From 2 Months Old</b></h2>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Ranging is the stage characterized by letting the fighting cocks roam around in a wide area to develop it's bone muscles, internal organs or generally grow them to have an athletic body. An ideal range area contains a lot of healthy grasses and trees. In as much as the chickens no longer live in a controlled environment and exposed to harsh weather conditions, proper medication and management is essential. Be sure that the chickens have booster vaccinations against fowl fox, new castle disease and coryza. Gamefarms near broiler or layer farms should be vaccinated with infections bursal disease.</blockquote>
<b><br /></b>
<b>AGE MEDICINE DOSAGE</b><br />
<br />
61-63 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
64-65 TAPE TERMINATOR 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
66-67 DOXYLAK FORTE POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
68 FOWL POX VACCINE 1 prick wing web<br />
<br />
69-71 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
72-74 AMOXITYL 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
75 NCD VACCINE (B1+LASOTA) 1 drop on the eye<br />
<br />
77-79 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
80-81 PYRISTAT POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
82 FOWL POX VACCINE 1 prick wing web<br />
<br />
83-85 VIMINOLAK IRON CELL 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
87-89 TRISULLAK POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
90 CORYZA VACCINATION 0.5 cc via SQ or IM<br />
<br />
91-93 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
94-95 TAPE TERMINATOR 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
96-98 PYRISTAT SOLUTION 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
100 WASH OUT SHAMPOO 1 sachet /2 gallons of water -10 birds<br />
<br />
101-103 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
104 NCD VACCINE (B1+LASOTA) 1 drop on the eye<br />
<br />
105-107 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
112-114 DOXYLAK FORTE POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
115-116 PYRISTAT POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
117-119 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
120 CORYZA VACCINE BOOSTER 0.5 cc via SQ or IM<br />
<br />
121-123 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
125-126 TAPE TERMINATOR 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
127-129 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
130 NCD VACCINE (B1+LASOTA) 1 drop on the eye<br />
<br />
131-133 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
136 THIABEX XS 0.25 per head via IM<br />
<br />
137-139 AMOXITYL 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
140-141 VIMINOLAK IRON CELL 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
142-144 TAPE TERMINATOR 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
145-147 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
148-149 PYRISTAT POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
<br />
150-152 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water<br />
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<br /></div>
<div>
157 WASH OUT SHAMPOO 1 sachet /2 gallons of water -10 birds</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
158-160 TRISULLAK POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
163-165 MULTILYTE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
166-168 REST</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
169-171 DOXYLAK FORTE POWDER 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
174 CYDROXO 0.5 per head via IM</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
175-177 LAKTAMINO XE 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
178-180 AMOXITYL 1 tsp / 1 gallon of water</div>
<br />Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-66462463854001207682016-02-15T19:18:00.001-08:002016-02-15T19:26:56.084-08:00Gamefowl Chicken For Sale Online<h3>
How To Avoid Being Scam On Chicken For Sale Online</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://nebula.wsimg.com/da23ad0f29871dde05ba99bfae685cf0?AccessKeyId=0B8AD713C9B4EBD7A9F5&disposition=0&alloworigin=1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://nebula.wsimg.com/da23ad0f29871dde05ba99bfae685cf0?AccessKeyId=0B8AD713C9B4EBD7A9F5&disposition=0&alloworigin=1" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
A lot of <a href="http://www.gamefowlchickenforsale.com/" target="_blank">gamefowl chicken for sale online</a> nowadays, this is one way of commercializing chicken breeds by many breeders. Mostly people from other country or OFW's bought gamefowls online because they have a lot of choices and mostly they come very cheap.<br />
<br />
However, they never expect that a lot of gamefowl breeders/sellers online that are bogus and scammers. We cannot deny the fact that a lot of buyers online were scammed, their hard earned money are gone fast and its sad but true. You can see a lot of complaints on news papers, TV and etc. that those were being scammed online are growing for buying gamefowl itself.<br />
<br />
Most of those scammers used fake name and copy the profiles and pictures of chickens from the known breeders. They took pictures and advertise those on <a href="http://www.gamefowlchickenforsale.com/" target="_blank">gamefowl for sale</a> websites or on Facebook.<br />
<br />
So how to avoid those scammers? and how to protect our hard earned money?<br />
<br />
Here are the checklist I've made before buying chicken for sale online:<br />
<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Check the profiles of the seller if there are a lot of posts made by them and select only those who are using real photo.</li>
<li>Check if they are connected with friends that are real person, you will know this by checking post comments and likes they received.</li>
<li>Check the chicken in action by asking them to take video of the actual chicken that you want to buy. Don't just believe on photo advertised, they can get it on other websites.</li>
<li>Lastly, when sending payments, I suggest you chose bank transfer because this way we can make sure if the the name provided by the sellers are matched on their bank account. Also, if ever something bad happened we can request transaction records from the bank and CCTV record during withdrawals and etc.</li>
</ol>
That's what I did when I <a href="http://www.gamefowlchickenforsale.com/" target="_blank">buy chicken for sale online</a>. If you have something to add, please comment below.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-46463182224810824582015-12-07T19:31:00.000-08:002015-12-07T19:31:27.793-08:00LDI Endorser's 31 Days Conditioning Program<h3>
The 31 Days Conditioning With LDI Products</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhqVuyUHMppGiPW52rqTPoShjyAvIzaFfDCm3WoeuMOHDHZ7K3ITe728DgkPR1zXlJXsd8afAwhxCsr5ZXtzTLjO6svHRU_VIO2CteHkf6DgBnZg_z1yYzuHE9eKxSq2jp2Er8-AE2e6t/s1600/IMG_20141016_143755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhqVuyUHMppGiPW52rqTPoShjyAvIzaFfDCm3WoeuMOHDHZ7K3ITe728DgkPR1zXlJXsd8afAwhxCsr5ZXtzTLjO6svHRU_VIO2CteHkf6DgBnZg_z1yYzuHE9eKxSq2jp2Er8-AE2e6t/s400/IMG_20141016_143755.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
Day 1 Purga 5 PM - Laktamino XE, 10 PM - Vermex<br />
<br />
Day 2 Ligo Wash Out - Viminolak Tab<br />
<br />
Day 3 Turok B-Complex<br />
Kaskas/Sampi 1X AM - Bee Pollen, PM Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 4 Kaskas/Sampi 2X AM -Viminolak Tab, PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 5 Kaskas/Sampi 3X AM - Calvex, PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 6 Rest AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
<br />
Day 7 Sparring AM - Bee Pollen, PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
Turok PM - B Complex<br />
<br />
Day 8 Kaskas/Sampi 3X PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 9 Kaskas/Sampi 2X AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 10 Kaskas/Sampi 1X AM - Laktamino XE<br />
PM - B-Complex<br />
<br />
Day 11 Rest AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 12 Sparring AM - Calvex<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 13 Kaskas/Sampi 3X PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 14 Kaskas/Sampi 2X AM - Bee Pollen, PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
PM - Cydroxo Cobalamin<br />
<br />
Day 15 Kaskas/Sampi 1X AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 16 Rest AM - Calvex<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 17 Sparring AM - Bee Pollen<br />
Purga PM - Vermex<br />
<br />
Day 18 Rest AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 19 Rest AM - Calvex<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 20 Rest AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 21 Sparring AM - Bee Pollen<br />
Turok PM - B-Complex<br />
<br />
Day 22 Kaskas/Sampi 3X AM - Calvex<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 23 Kaskas/Sampi 2X AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 24 Kaskas/Sampi 1X AM - Bee Pollen<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 25 Rest AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 26 Last Sparring AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
Turok PM - LDI B-12<br />
<br />
Day 27 Rest AM - Calvex<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 28 Rest AM - Bee Pollen<br />
PM - Laktamino XE<br />
<br />
Day 29 Rest AM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Cydroxo Cobalamin<br />
PM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
<br />
Day 30 Rest AM - Viminolak Iron Cell<br />
AM - 12 SipSip ng Tubig with Multilyte<br />
PM - Viminolak Tab<br />
PM - Bee Pollen<br />
PM - 8-10 SipSip ng Tubig with Multilyte<br />
Day 31 <span style="background-color: yellow; color: red;">FIGHT DAY</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-85477527004988223502015-08-18T07:00:00.002-07:002015-08-18T07:01:13.098-07:0021 Days Breeder's Pre-Con Program<h4 style="text-align: center;">
<b>Mga Gawain Sa Paghahanda ng Ating Mga Breeding Materials</b></h4>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc16gw6_Fz8_fFPGkOcdblCseunCGaFjw8NjLNeLSaWCKGCdhT9IvYELymFOmU3vw6yefD52Q_yRwtGw88Z_bOA30zpTjkkrCPzaa8eOTcZUfVer-DcwFxkq9FDqTejW5U2KXEOiyD3H14/s1600/11428815_1598550587087340_211118492365088046_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc16gw6_Fz8_fFPGkOcdblCseunCGaFjw8NjLNeLSaWCKGCdhT9IvYELymFOmU3vw6yefD52Q_yRwtGw88Z_bOA30zpTjkkrCPzaa8eOTcZUfVer-DcwFxkq9FDqTejW5U2KXEOiyD3H14/s320/11428815_1598550587087340_211118492365088046_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<h4>
<b>Day Gawain Gamot Dosage</b></h4>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
1 Purga Tape Terminator 1 CC isupak kada ulo<br />
Ligo Wash Out 1 sachet sa 2 galong tubig<br />
Turok Thiabex XS 0.5 CC iturok sa pitso<br />
<br />
2 ------------ -------------------- ------------------------------<br />
<br />
3 - 5 Kontra Malaria Pyristat Tablet 1 tableta kada araw<br />
<br />
6 Immune Booster Laktamino XE 1 tsp. kada 2 litrong tubig<br />
<br />
7 Bakuna laban sa peste ND B1b1 + La Sota 1 patak sa mata at ilong<br />
at gumburo<br />
<br />
8 Pampapula ng dugo Viminolak Iron Cell 5 drops / 120 G. of feeds<br />
<br />
9 Bitamina sa dugo Thiabex XS 0.5 CC iturok sa pitso<br />
<br />
10 - 13 ------------ -------------------- ------------------------------ <br />
<br />
14 Bakuna kontra bulutong Fowl Fox Vaccine Wing Web Method<br />
<br />
15 - 17 Egg booster Vitavet Plus 1 tsp. sa 2 galong tubig<br />
<br />
18 - 20 Palakasin ang Multi-Lyte 1 tsp. sa 1 litrong tubig<br />
pangangatawan<br />
<br />
21 Bakuna kontra Coryza Infectious Coryza 0.5 ml. subcutaneous<br />
Vaccine<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2015/08/standards-on-selecting-brood-fowls.html">View Standards On Selection Brood Materials</a></div>
Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-60449137448917904492015-08-18T06:34:00.000-07:002016-03-21T21:13:58.193-07:00Breeding Program For Gamefowl: Standards On Selecting Brood Fowls<h3 style="text-align: center;">
Mga Dapat Tandaan sa Pagpili ng Brood Materials</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55gaSWP1pmUsqTx8Zk90tXmysETSIf6w3dYdCvplkeA3jNexTbJ-nojR_IP9aK8YSnqYtdzpsWK0UKYKz9nIim4d9A1qJ282OeJICDivHv-RYdAvC1JbRCL-5RNJSBPLmP04T5-EMkLYn/s1600/1511279_1598550080420724_6049982025173042091_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="copyright hvm backyard" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55gaSWP1pmUsqTx8Zk90tXmysETSIf6w3dYdCvplkeA3jNexTbJ-nojR_IP9aK8YSnqYtdzpsWK0UKYKz9nIim4d9A1qJ282OeJICDivHv-RYdAvC1JbRCL-5RNJSBPLmP04T5-EMkLYn/s320/1511279_1598550080420724_6049982025173042091_n.jpg" title="copyright hvm backyard" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<b>SPECIFICATIONS BROODCOCK BROODHEN</b><br />
<br />
Kumpormasyon ng katawan Balansyado at makisig Balansyado at makisig<br />
kung tumayo, mabuto kung tumayo, "malapuso<br />
at masikip ang sipit-sipitan ang hipo" at maluwang<br />
ang sipit-sipitan<br />
<br />
Kalusugan ng katawan Hindi nagkakasakit at Hindi nagkakasakit at<br />
mapula ang gilid sa subok na naglalabas ng<br />
mata at palong malusog na sisiw<br />
<br />
Estilo sa paglaban Salto, Angat-Sarado Walang kapatid na<br />
sumuko o tumakbo<br />
sa laban<br />
<br />
Estasyon o gaano katangkad Medium-High ang tangkad High stationed, mahigpit<br />
ang balahibo at<br />
mahaba ang leeg<br />
<br />
Lahi ng manok o bloodline Winning line at "Power" cock High winning percentage<br />
ang mga kapatid na<br />
nailaban<br />
<br />
Edad ng manok 2-3 years old 1-2 years old<br />
<br />
Timbang 2.10 - 2.25 kgs 1.80 - 1.90 kgsJun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-29000137263008972012015-08-09T18:57:00.004-07:002016-11-05T15:55:44.313-07:00Breeding Program For Gamefowl: Stags Hardening Program - LDI<h3>
Hardening Program For Your Stags</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Siguradohing maganda at healthy and inyong stags during hardening stage. Itong guide na ito ay maaring makatulong sa inyo.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO9ASYP6cO15DiJPu4dLL6hb3cPclyZ2LH5BtjmNqRKSXD6pUrlPNzfWDbvhwlweIVctgnZC6PxTJiKBnJMZFmgNyLLnpCebR4Tf2BGrYqEAKDfCzSwAMQax4Z0f5cRHzE9fdEG14MO7QQ/s1600/070520081641-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO9ASYP6cO15DiJPu4dLL6hb3cPclyZ2LH5BtjmNqRKSXD6pUrlPNzfWDbvhwlweIVctgnZC6PxTJiKBnJMZFmgNyLLnpCebR4Tf2BGrYqEAKDfCzSwAMQax4Z0f5cRHzE9fdEG14MO7QQ/s320/070520081641-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Source Image 1: <span class="irc_ho" dir="ltr" style="margin-right: -2px; overflow: hidden; padding-right: 2px; text-overflow: ellipsis; unicode-bidi: -webkit-isolate;">sabong.net.ph</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://c81157uz7jsm4nf5jco7rkqd45.hop.clickbank.net/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img src="http://buildingchickencoopsguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cc428x60.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">advertisement</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h4>
Benefits Days Vits/Supplements Dosage</h4>
Cleansing Program 1 Purga Vermex Forte 1 Tablet<br />
Ligo Wash Out 1 Sachet kada 10 manok<br />
Blood Revitalizer 2 Turok Thiabex XS 0.5 cc kada manok<br />
Anti-Bacterial 3 Subo Doxylak 1 Tablet<br />
Anti-Malarial 4 Subo Trisullak 1 Tablet<br />
Anti-Coccidial 5 Subo Pyristat 1 Tablet<br />
Bone & Mascular Priming 6 Subo Calvex 1 Tablet<br />
Bone & Mascular Priming 7 Patak Laktamino XE 3 Patak kada manok<br />
Pahinga 8 ---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Blood Revitalizer 9 Patak Viminolak Iron Cell 3 Patak kada manok<br />
Pahinga 10 ---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Bone & Mascular Priming 11 Subo Calvex 1 Tablet<br />
Bone & Mascular Priming 12 Patak Laktamino XE 3 Patak kada manok<br />
Pahinga 13 ---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Cleansing Program 14 Purga Vermex Forte 1 Tablet<br />
Ligo Wash Out 1 Sachet kada 10 manok<br />
Blood Revitalizer 15 Turok Thiabex XS 0.5 cc kada manok<br />
Multi-Vitamins 16 Subo Viminolak Tablet 1 Tablet<br />
Pahinga 17 ---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Immune Booster 18 Subo Proxigen 1 Tablet<br />
Blood Revitalizer 19 Patak Viminolak Iron Cell 3 Patak kada manok<br />
Pahinga 20 ---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Bone & Mascular Priming 21 Subo Calvex 1 Tablet<br />
Bone & Mascular Priming 22 Patak Laktamino XE 3 Patak kada manok<br />
Pahinga 23 ---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2015/08/hardening-guide-ldi.html">Basic Principles of Hardening Stags</a></h3>
<br />
<br />Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-37258275383115687682015-08-08T17:25:00.000-07:002015-08-08T17:25:19.328-07:00Hardening Guide - LDI<h3>
Basic Principles of Hardening Stags</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
<u>Physical Hardening</u></h4>
- Pagpapatibay at paghubog ng mga buto at muscle ng stag<br />
<br />
<h4>
Rotational Exercise Regimen</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
*<b>Running Pens</b> - maglagay ng maikling tie cord sa kanan na paa ng stag at maglabas ng pullet sa katabing running pen upang masanay ang stag na may hila-hilang tali sa paa.<br />
<br />
*<b>Scratch Pens</b> - Maglagay ng dayami o tuyo na dahon saging upang makapaghalukay ang stag at magamit ang mga muscle at buto ng paa't binti sa ehersisyo.<br />
<br />
*<b>Pit Scratching</b> - Magbigay ng kalaban na stag at ikahig ang dalawa hanggang sila ay mapagod.<br />
<br />
*<b>Salida</b> - Panimulang pagbibitaw na malapitan ng dalawang magkasing-timbang na stags upang isanay ang mga stags sa matinding paluan. Maari itong gawin na walang suot na gloves.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h4>
<u>Mental Hardening</u></h4>
- Pagpapataas at pagpapatapang ng fighting instinct ng stag<br />
<br />
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*<b>Fly Pens</b> - Pagsasama ng hen o pullet sa loob ng flying pen upang mapataas ang sekswal instinct, kumpyansa at hormone na testosterone para maging ganap na matapang ang stag.<br />
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*<b>Teasing at Pecking</b> - Panunukso at pagpapatuka sa kalaban na stag upang magalit at tumapang pa ang mga stag na inihahanda.<br />
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*<b>Cording</b> - Ang pagtatali sa mga stags upang sila ay masanay na nakatali at maging maamo.<br />
<br />
*<b>Hand Sparring</b> - Pagsasanay sa mga stags na pumalo ng kalaban sa magkakaibang posisyon.<br />
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*<b>Limbering</b> - Pagsasanay sa mga stags upang makilala at matandaan ang pagpapa-ilaw at para hindi maging silaw pagdating ng oras ng laban.<br />
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<h4>
<u>Pagpapa-lakas ng Puso at Resistensya ng Stag</u></h4>
<br />
Ang puso ng manok ay ang pundasyon upang ang stag ay maging malakas. Ang maayos na pagdaloy ng malusog na dugo sa mga iba't-ibang parte ng katawan ng manok kasama na ang vital organs katulad ng mga baga, atay, bato at utak na nagbibigay ng oxygen at nutrients sa mga cells ng muscle ay ang susi sa pagpapa-buo ng isang dead game na stag. Ang dugo ng mga ibon kasama ang manok panabong ay may taglay na nucleus reserve na nagbibigay ng extra na oxygen upang makatagal sa matinding labanan.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-64468048398285592532015-08-07T16:07:00.000-07:002015-08-07T16:21:06.762-07:00Continuation on Brooding Management - LDI<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Day Supplements Dosage Purpose</span></h4>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">31-33 Doxylak Forte WSP 1/2 tsp. Doxylak Forte Para maiwasan ang pisik at pagtatae dulot</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> ng stress sa paglipat sa mini range area</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">34-35</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Laktamino XE Para ma-boost ang immune system ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 36 Tape Terminator 5 ml sa 1 litrong tubig Para maalis ang bulate sa bituka ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">37-39</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Multi-Lyte 1/2 tsp. sa 1 litrong tubig Para palakasin ang pangangatawan</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 40</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">--------------------------------- ------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">41-13</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Multi-Lyte 1/2 tsp. sa 1 litrong tubig Para palakasin ang pangangatawan</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 44 Infectious Coryza Vaccine Iturok 0.5 cc sa pitso Para makaiwas sa sakit na</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Infectious Coryza</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">45-46</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Laktamino XE Para ma-boost ang immune system ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">47-49</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">--------------------------------- ------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">50-52</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Amobac + Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Amobac + 1/2 Laktamino Para ma-flush out ang bacteria sa mga sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 53</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> ND LA SOTA </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ipatak sa mata o ilong ang bakuna Para maka iwas sa sakit na peste</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">54-55</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Laktamino XE Para ma-boost ang immune system ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">56-57</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">--------------------------------- ------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 58</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Fowl Pox Vaccine Wing web method Para makaiwas sa sakit na bulutong</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">59-60</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Multi-Lyte 1/2 tsp. sa 1 litrong tubig Para palakasin ang pangangatawan</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2015/08/brooding-management-ldi.html">Back To Page 1</a> </span></h3>
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Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-91392191199519159442015-08-07T15:56:00.002-07:002016-11-05T15:58:49.954-07:00Breeding Program For Gamefowl: Brooding Management - LDI<h3>
</h3>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Keep Your Chicks Healthy Using This Method</h3>
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<br /></div>
<div>
Sundin ang mga gabay na ito upang maging mataas ang chance na magkaroon ng mga malulusog na sisiw at magiging less ang mortality rate.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a name='more'></a><h4 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Day Supplements Dosage Purpose</span></h4>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 1 Brown Sugar + Multi-Lyte 1/2 tsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. Multi-Lyte Para Palakasin ang pangangatawan</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">2 - 4 Amobac + Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Amobac + 1/2 Laktamino XE Para ma-flush out ang bacteria sa mga sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">5 - 6 Multi-Lyte 1/2 tsp. sa 1 litrong tubig Para palakasin ang pangangatawan</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 7 ND B1b1 Ipatak sa mata o ilong ang bakuna Para maka iwas sa sakit na peste</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">8 - 9 Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Laktamino XE Para ma-boost ang immune system ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">10-12 Pyristat WSP 1/2tsp. Pyristat WSP Para maiwasan ang sakit ng Avian Malaria</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 13 --------------------------------- ------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">14-16 Coxiban 1 tsp. Coxiban sa 1 galong tubig Para maiwasan ang coccidiosis</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">17-18</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Laktamino XE Para ma-boost ang immune system ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">19-20 </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">--------------------------------- ------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 21 ND LA SOTA </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ipatak sa mata o ilong ang bakuna Para maka iwas sa sakit na peste</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">22-24 Trisullak WSP 1/2 tsp. Trisullac sa 1litrong tubig Para maiwasan ang pisik at pagtatae dulot</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> ng post-vaccination stress</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">25-27 </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">--------------------------------- ------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> 28 Fowl Pox Vaccine Wing web method Para makaiwas sa sakit na bulutong</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">29-30</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Laktamino XE 1/2 tsp. Laktamino XE Para ma-boost ang immune system ng sisiw</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> sa 1 litrong tubig</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div>
<div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<h2>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2015/08/continuation-on-brooding-management-ldi.html">Continue reading Page 2 link...</a> </span></h2>
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Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-79708668923624251372014-08-05T07:42:00.000-07:002014-08-05T07:42:00.929-07:00Conditioning the Gamecock for Battle By: Narragansett 1985 - Part 2<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; line-height: 17.563634872436523px;"><b>Cont...</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; line-height: 17.563634872436523px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; line-height: 17.563634872436523px;">Record such weight day by day on a chart right to the quarter ounce so you can determine whether a cock is gaining or losing weight which is a excellent indication of his health, and whether or not he is prospering on the quality and quantity of feed he is receiving. A cock should be at about his proper fighting weight when he enters the keep following a week or two of the preconditioning process. During the two week "keep" period I like to drop him off an ounce or two through the quality and quantity of feed during the early part of the keep, and then bring him up toward the end of the keep so that he weighs as much as when he entered the keep or an ounce or two more. Make such increases and decreases in weight gradually. Don't go to excesses in achieving such results. I he does not change don't fret about it. Such uniformity in weight indicates that a cock is just about right in weight, and you should not attempt to change it.</span><br />
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<br />By all means concentrate on having a cock "coming up" in weight, health, spirit,, and freshness as the day of battle approaches. Note especially Spirit and Freshness. If the cock does not have those qualities the minute he enters the pit, and has become stale or "gone by" as some men express it, he is an almost certain loser no matter how much you have done for him during the preceding four weeks. Many good cockers make their selections on the day of the fight based largely on a cock's freshness and eagerness on fight day regardless of how he has shown in his previous sparring sessions.<br />I am a great believer in freshness and in having lots of moisture in cocks’ tissues when fought. One excellent cocker I know who has a splendid record for setting down cutting cocks attributes much of his success to having cocks with a lot of moisture in their muscles. He actually forces in the moisture by feeding aloof oatmeal soaked in buttermilk, and a lot old stale bread soaked in water. Personally, I think he overdoes this feature of feeding, but you can't argue with success. My own fowl have a splendid reputation for cutting, and I always have plenty of moisture in their systems. Certain it is that a cock will hit short and not "reach out" with his blows.</div>
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<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$4:0"></span></span><br />
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<br />The matter of a cock's proper fighting weight is a topic of dispute among even the best conditioners. Some men like for a cock to carry two, four, or even six ounces more flesh than other equally good conditioners. Both win and apparently show equally strong and durable fowl. Some families, and especially round headed fowl, seem to require more meat on them than others. You don't want any gut fat in them . That's sure. But other than that you'll have to come to your own decision as to your fowl's proper fighting weight based upon your experience and observations. In any event, approach this problem with an open mind and don't be a slave to the scales or preconceived ideas. Base your judgment on what you observe with your own fowl. Read Continuation here</div>
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<div style="background-color: white; color: #141823; display: inline; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; line-height: 17.563634872436523px; margin-top: 6px;">
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<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$4:0"><b>Timing</b></span></span><br />
<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$1:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$2:0">Probably the most important feature of the feeding, as well as all other procedures in the conditioning program, is that of timing, or of having the fowl at their peak at the hour of battle. It is no good to have them "ready" or at their peak, two days or even two hours prior to battle. They must "peak" at the hour they enter the pit. Many features contribute to this condition, but from a feeding standpoint the important part is to have them "comin up" just prior to battle, and fresh. To accomplish this you must feed less (mostly cracked corn), excercise less, and rest more-- complete rest the last 72 hours prior to battle. Not over one-half the feed the eveing before fight day unless fought at night and then only one-half white of hard boiled egg. Through this procedure, cocks will come up in weight, even on less feed, and be hungry and " a walkin' and talkin' in your hands" as they enter the pit.</span></span></span><br />
<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$3:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$4:0">Some conditioners endeavor to control this timing, or peaking, through the use of various drugs. I find that the best overall, and the most consistent, results are obtained by foloowing the procedure outlined here.</span></span></span><br />
<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$5:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$6:0">Black Magic</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$7:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$8:0">4oz. powdered charcoal</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$9:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$10:0">2oz. ground mustard</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$11:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$12:0">2oz. ground ginger</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$13:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$14:0">2 oz. red pepper</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$15:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$16:0">2 oz. cinnamon</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$17:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$18:0">1/2 oz. carbonate of iron (if obtainable)</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$19:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$20:0">Sprinkle liberally on moist feed like salt</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$21:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0">"This is an appetite stimulator only. Use all during the keep."</span><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$23:0" /><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$25:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$26:0"><b>Selection</b></span></span></span><br />
<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$27:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$28:0">The matter of selection of the fowl to be shown at a specific time is of the utmost importance to the cocker who wants to win. You have up a show of 12 birds from which you must show eight. Which ones should you use? In this respect, I always think of the advice given me by Elmer Ernhart of York, Pennsylvania, over thirty years ago. He said : "Take only your Aces to the pit. Leave the Kings and Queens at home." Again: "Play no favorites, select your show from the ones which are "ready" today."On the negative side I often think of the advice given me by my father who said; "Many an attorney accepts a case which at first he thinks has no chance of success. But the more he works on the case he becomes convinced he has a chance, then when the verdict goes against him he is sunk." It is the same way with cocking. We put a second rate bird in the keep, but he improves and we "talk ourselves" into believing that he can win. But he doesn't.</span></span></span><br />
<span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3" style="background-color: #f6f7f8; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.818181991577148px; line-height: 13.963635444641113px;"><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><br data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$29:0" /><span data-reactid=".2.1:3:1:$comment266965430160840_266965730160810:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$30:0">So beware of "talking yourself" into a win. Rather follow the advice of old Elmer: "Take only the Aces to the pit." The Kings and Queens,well, use them for hacking or leave them at home. The chances are that they will meet someone else Ace and you will have a zero on the scoreboard.</span></span></span>Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-14468127995584784602014-08-04T07:43:00.001-07:002014-08-04T07:43:38.197-07:00Conditioning the Gamecock for Battle By: Narragansett 1985 - Part 1<div style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; line-height: 17.563634872436523px; margin-bottom: 6px; margin-top: 6px;">
"<b>1st section</b>"</div>
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<br /><b>Feeding</b></div>
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<br />The matter of the ingredients contained in the keep feed has long been considered the great secret in preparing cocks for battle. I disagree.</div>
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<br />My own experience indicates that the basic feed which a cock receives in the three or four weeks prior to battle should vary but little from the feed to which he has been accustomed throughout his lifetime. Any wide departure from his normal diet cannot materially increase his strength, and in all probability will upset his digestive apparatus to the point where he will have less strength than he possessed prior to the introduction of the new feeds.</div>
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<br />Consider this practical example: the Olympic Games bring together the finest conditioned athletes in the world. The Americans have their diet, the Russians have theirs, the Africans have theirs, the Japanese have still another. Yet they all win. However, everyone will agree that if in the last few weeks before the competition any of them had changed his diet to the one used by the champion from another continent, all he would have got out of it would have been a stomach ache and defeat. The same applies to keep feeds for roosters. Stick to the diet to which they are accustomed.<br />My basic feed consists of:<br />40% soaked race horse oats. Soaked in wooden barrels or plastic Ash cans out in the sun for three or four days so they begin to sour.</div>
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<br /><b>20% whole corn<br />10% dry race horse oats<br />7 1/2 % wheat<br />7 1/2 % Milo<br />5% sunflower seed<br />10% laying pellets</b></div>
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<br />I mix up the dry feed and store in a barrel, then mix in the soaked oats just before feeding. This mixture is put together by using a good sized pan for measuring and dumping the grain in a big pail where it is mixed, then dump the pail full into a 55 gallon oil drum where it is mixed some more. The chickens get this feed from 12 weeks on as long as they live. That way they become accustomed to eating whole corn which is the best way to feed this grain. In cold weather the proportion of whole corn is increased up to 40% of the total and the soaked oats reduced. In the keep feed I cut way down on the soaked oats but don’t eliminate them entirely. It is interesting to observe the reaction of the fowl to this grain mixture. In hot weather the whole corn is the last thing they eat, whereas in cold weather they gobble up every kernel of whole corn before they touch any of the other grains. I am a great respecter of nature, and endeavor to go along with it just as far as I possibly can in everything pertaining to the feeding and care of the fowl. You will notice that this basic feed which I use is heavy in sour and whole oats. This makes for prolonged slow growth and late maturity. Both features are desirable in growing young stock. Flesh and fat can be acquired in a relatively short period of time, but strong bone development and strong ligaments and sinews require time. You cannot hurry them. The longer you can keep young stock growing, the tougher and stronger their bone and sinew structure will be at maturity. It is far better to have stags strong and husky in April than it is to have them fully matured in September.<br />"Fresh green grass is No.1 feed in the world for chickens, especially from 8 weeks old until cooped, and all during the precondition and the Keep. The soaked sour oats described previously are next best. The more sour the better. Be sure to feed them from 12 weeks old, and forever after."</div>
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There are certain things in the conditioning feed line which you can do to advantage:</div>
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<br />(1) If your usual feed is of poor quality, mix up the same ingredients from good quality grains.</div>
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<br />(2) Blow out the dust and chaffed by winnowing it in the open air.</div>
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<br />There's nothing beneficial about dirt and husks. But don't put in a lot of new grains.<br />(3) There are certain things which increase the appetite and aid the digestion. Anything which does this in a normal natural way is good. But don't go to extremes. Strychnine will develop a voracious appetite, but it also stimulates other activities to the point where it does more harm than good. I've tried it but abandoned the practice. Certain so-called conditioning powders are designed to increase the appetite and are okay. For years I've used what the boys call my "Black Magic" for such purposes. It's easy to put together and cheap. The recipe appears at the end of this section.</div>
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<br />(4) There are certain other additives that help, but use all of them sparingly.</div>
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<br />(a) A Little wheat germ oil mixed in the grain stimulates the sex impulse which is good. Use once a day for the last week or ten days<br />(b) Do the same with cod liver oil at the other daily feeding.<br />Just a little. When using these ingredients feed in cups, not on the ground where the moist grain picks up dirt and filth.</div>
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<br />(c) Raw eggs are good. They're a natural food. Mix up one in your grain to every four or five cocks once a day or even twice a day. The last three days use the white only of a hard boiled egg to every three cocks. Add it to your grain feed.</div>
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<br />(d) Some people add a little concentrated Beef Extract as put out by Wilson and Company a few times during the keep. This is okay but I never saw that it did much good.</div>
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<br />(e) A noon feed of chopped apple, chopped onion, chopped lettuce is good. Not much. Just a little.<br />Occasionally add a little chopped up cooked lean beef. Feed all of this in a cup. Not too much. If they don't eat it all in ten minutes, take it away and throw it out.</div>
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<br />(f) Many good feeders use buttermilk on all their feeds. You might try it. If they like it, it means their systems require this ingredient, if they don't forget it and give them their regular feed.</div>
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<br />(g) A little calf-manna mixed in your grain feed is good. About a teaspoon full to the cock once a day. You can get it at any grain or feed store. I consider it okay. Mix in a little layer pellets if the fowl like them.</div>
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<br />(h) The last three days, keep cocks in cock house and feed mostly corn and hard boiled white of eggs. But just add more corn to your regular grain feed, don't feed corn exclusively. And by all means during this time feed less rather than more. Not more than two-thirds of what you have been feeding. You want your cocks hungry when they enter the pit.</div>
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There are countless drugs, steroids and other stuff which feeders try to increase the strength or desire or speed or something. I've tried all the ones I ever heard of but abandoned them all. Many people feel they are not really "conditioning" a bird unless they feed something extra. If you are one of them, here are a few thins you can do which probably will do no harm:</div>
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<br />Add some bean sprouts chopped up fresh from the Chinese restaurant to the noon vegetable feeding. Some cocks will not eat them, but if they do it is good for them.<br />Add a little brown sugar, or still better, some honey to their feed the last week. Both are strengthening and produce energy.</div>
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<br />Some people feel they must add bone meal and fish meal to their feed the first ten days. This is okay, if fresh but if sour or rancid they could throw the cocks off their feed.<br />Others think the cocks should drink toast water or barley water instead of plain fresh water.</div>
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I don't have time to bother with any of these things, but if you wish to do so , go ahead. I doubt if they do much good, but they will do no harm.</div>
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<br />Sometimes I add some concentrated gelatin, sugar and milk prepared in a double boiler and then cooled in a pan until it solidifies. Cut up little cubes about 3/4 inches and add to feed. This puts on weight like everything. Adds energy. Use only the last four or five days, especially in cold weather. Some people swear by it. “The formula--2 ounces Knox gelatin, four ounces sugar, 2 cups milk."</div>
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Of far greater importance than what you feed is how much you feed. As one old master said, "The feed cup is the key to the keep." Cocks must be kept hungry, active, alert, and scratching throughout the keep. At every feed they should be "hitting the bottom of the cup" and making it rattle on their cock stalls. If they don't clean up every grain in five minutes and start looking for more, you’re feeding too much. If any individual cock leaves anything in his cup by the end of this time, take away his cup and feed less the next meal.</div>
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<br />To feed accurately you need a feed cup which has a flat top so that you know exactly how much you are feeding. A whiskey jigger is okay or one those little plastic measure which come in coffee cans. The important thing is for you to know exactly how much you are feeding. Every one-fourth ounce makes a difference. Measuring by a spoon or a handful is no good. Not accurate enough. Find out exactly how much your measure holds by weighing its contents of your dry grain mix on the scales and then feed a little or a little less than a cupful. Usually about 1 1/8th or 1 1/4th ounces is a normal feed twice a day. But the important thing is for you to know how much you are feeding and not be guessing at it. After that, note how each individual cock responds to his feed, as indicated by his appetite and his weight, and measure his feed accordingly. But ever and always have him "hitting the bottom of the cup" and looking for more. It is far better to feed too little than too much. You won’t increase his strength by feeding more than he can digest quickly. You'll only make him sluggish and upset.</div>
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<br />Keeping in mind that the purpose of any keep is to have a cock (1) fresh (2) alert (3) active (4) confident and (5) happy. If anything in this keep or any other one interferes with those objectives, abandon the practices or the feed which you think is causing the trouble and do something else. No set schedule or formula will cover all conditions of weather, state of health and flesh, temperament of cocks, etc. You must appraise all these things as you go along by observing the cocks and noting their responses to what you are feeding or what you are doing to them. I'm a great believer in changing the cock's location frequently during the keep. Coops on green grass one day, fly-pen another, regular small pen with dirt or sand bottom the next, etc. Such changes keep them fresh and eager. Whenever the weather is favorable, I like to keep them outdoors during the daytime.</div>
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<br />I'm not afraid of getting them "loose" on fresh grass provided they have been on grass prior to entering the keep. It keeps them fresh. You wouldn't like to be shut up in a close, hot stall and neither do they. It's the same on cold or windy or rainy days. Put them were they'll be most comfortable. Don't be a slave to a schedule. Keep water in front of them all the time until the last 24 or 48 hours before fight time, then give them less depending upon the weather. I do like to keep them quiet and resting the last three days or 72 hours prior to their fight, but use judgment on this too and by all means have them comfortable and happy.</div>
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<br />What you feed, how much you feed , when and how you exercise the cocks will vary somewhat with every bunch you put up. Just keep in mind what you are trying to accomplish, as stated previously, by observing the reaction of the fowl to what you are feeding and doing, and don't be a robot to this or any other system.</div>
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<br />During the entire keep, notice the droppings every day. They should be firm but soft. Not hard and dried up, but not watery either. If they are either, try to determine the cause and correct it. They are a sure sign of a cock's condition and his ability to assimilate his food. He will not prosper if his droppings are not right. Sometimes it is the feed that is the trouble. Other times it is caused by nervousness or environment.</div>
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<br />Whatever the cause, try to eliminate it. No matter what feed or other procedure you are following, your fowl will be going down hill instead of improving if his droppings are off. One good conditioner I knew was called a "bowel man." He placed more stress on a fowl's droppings then upon any other indication of a bird's health. So pay attention to them. They are important. Toward the end of the keep the droppings should firm up somewhat due to the character of the feed and less water. Regulate both to achieve the result. You will have to work that out for yourself. No formula can anticipate all the conditions which you will encounter during the keep.</div>
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<br />The use of scales during the keep is important. Weigh each morning before the cock has been fed and when he has been without water all night. By weighing at that time you get a more accurate and uniform weighing. <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2014/08/conditioning-gamecock-for-battle-by_5.html">Click here to continue...</a></div>
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Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-4129313425447056882013-09-02T06:04:00.000-07:002016-11-05T15:46:58.467-07:00TATAK EXCELLENCE 7 DAYS CONDITIONING PROGRAM<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>AMTYL 500<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>RESPIGEN 15 GEL/DROPS<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1 GEL or 7 drops<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">@ 6:00 AM</span> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>RELOAD PLUS<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>7 drops before & after sparring</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> PROMOTOR 43<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>1 Capsule after afternoon feed</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>ZEROMITE Shampoo<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>10ml mix to 2 gallons of water<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>VOLTPLEX KQ<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>1 Capsule after morning feed</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>RELOAD PLUS<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>7 drops after morning and afternoon feeding</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">6<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>RESPIGEN 15 GEL/DROPS<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1 GEL or 7 drops @ 6:00 AM<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>VOLTPLEX KQ<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>1 Capsule after morning feed<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>RELOAD PLUS<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>7 drops after morning and afternoon feeding</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">7<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>VOLTPLEX KQ<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>1 Capsule after morning feed</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>RELOAD PLUS<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>7 drops 30 Minutes after</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> morning & afternoon feeding</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 5;"> </span>3
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>7 DAYS CONDITIONING PROGRAM by Excellence </b></span></div>
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<![endif]-->Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-44772542139666198832013-08-10T07:53:00.000-07:002016-11-05T15:49:36.250-07:00What Is The Best Hatch Gamefowl For You?<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<u>What Is The Best Hatch Gamefowl?</u></h3>
<br />
There are many types of hatch gamefowls that are breed by many breeders internationally. Most of this type are known for their gameness, aggressiveness, and multiple shufflers. Before, many breeders not just in PI has this type of chickens and usually use just for infusion purposes. Because usual birds that has this blood are grounder, and it is not ideal in Philippine cockfighting with a Long Knife gaffs.<br />
<br />
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Some of the breeders in Philippines developed hatch gamefowl that are good for long knife competitions. One of them are the known Hi Action Hatch. The hi-actions are generally high breaking hatch strains, good timing birds, they hit hard and would cut very well. I think it came from a Mclean Hatch, but I am not sure what other bloods being infuse to them.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Personally, I am really interested of this chickens, and this is one of the best hatch gamefowl for me. I'm pretty sure there would be lots of people out there agree with me. Ofcourse not all, because we have different taste, specially on styles and ability.<br />
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I saw some comments online, that if this birds mix with a leiper hatch, you could have a powerful and violent hitter fowl and it will be best cross then to a speed fowls like; sweaters, kelsos and rounheads. All of us aiming to have the best one, so keep on experimenting. Maybe someday, you will be known from your breeds.<br />
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Here's a video I found on YouTube. Hi Action hatch Sparring:<br />
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Again, this is my personal choice. So since I am just newbie on this sports. Please share your thoughts and ideas to other beginners as well. Now, tell us what is the best hatch gamefowl for you?Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-20593366475128249682013-07-09T20:27:00.003-07:002016-11-05T15:50:24.830-07:00LDI 21 Days Conditioning Keep By Gerald AmpilLast month June 2013 I am attending seminar of Lakpue Drug, Inc. for Gamefowl management and conditioning. I have learn a lot from there specially on different types of Gamefowl diseases and how to properly treat them. Sickness of this usual birds are almost alike and if not properly treat or if you are not able to give the proper medicines you would end up with nothing and might threaten the health of your beloved fowls and the death is the worst thing might happen. So, you really need to be more cautious on giving such medicines, now the symptoms first before looking for remedies.<br />
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One of most important knowledge I've learn from them is the 21 Days Conditioning Keep by one of their speaker Mr. Gerard Ampil of Ampil Brothers Gamefarm. So I would like to share it with you and I hope it won't be a problem for Mr. Ampil and I hope that this could help you too.<br />
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<b>Before starting this 21 days keep please do bacterial flushing and deworming.</b><br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
21 Days Conditioning Keep</h3>
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DAY ACTIVITY SUPPLEMENT</div>
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Day 1 4:00 AM - Training (Sampi, Palakad) - CALVEEX 1 tablet per head</div>
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7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa Gradas) - VIMINOLAK 1/2 tablet per head</div>
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Day 2 4:00 AM - Training (Sampi, Palakad) - LDI B-12 1 tablet per head</div>
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9:00 AM - Scratching (Pakaskas) </div>
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7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa Gradas) - VIMINOLAK 1/2 tablet per head</div>
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Day 3 4:00 AM - Training (Sampi, Palakad) - REDGEL Forte 1 Capsul per head</div>
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7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa Gradas) </div>
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Day 4 Rest on Cording Area</div>
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Day 5 Rest on Keeping Stalls</div>
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7:00 PM - THIABEX XS INJECT 0.5cc per head</div>
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Day 6 4:00 AM - Training & Sparring - CALVEEX 1 tablet per head after sparring</div>
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7:00 AM - Rest on Cording Area</div>
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7:00 PM - Rest on Keeping Stalls</div>
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Day 7 9:00 am - Delouse (Paligo sa manok) -WASH OUT shampoo </div>
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7:00 PM - Rest on Limbering Pen</div>
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Day 8 4:00 AM - Training (Sampi, Palakad) - CALVEEX 1 tablet per head</div>
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7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa Gradas) - VIMINOLAK 1/2 tablet per head</div>
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Day 9 4:00 AM - Training (Sampi, Palakad) - LDI B-12 1 tablet per head</div>
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7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa Gradas) - VIMINOLAK 1/2 tablet per head</div>
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Day 10 4:00 AM - Training (Sampi, Palakad)</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
12:00 NN - Rest on Keeping stalls </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw, Palakad) - THIABEX XS INJECT 0.5cc / head</div>
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Day 11 4:00 AM - Training & Sparring - CALVEEX 1 tablet / head after sparring</div>
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12:00 NN - Rest on Cording Area</div>
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7:00 PM - Rest on Keeping Stalls</div>
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Day 12 4:00 AM - Deworm (Purga) - VERMEX FORTE 1 tablet/head<br />
7:00 AM - Rest on Cording Area<br />
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Day 13 9:00 AM - Delouse (Paligo sa Manok) - WASH OUT shampoo<br />
7:00 PM - Rest on Limbering pen<br />
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Day 14 9:00 AM - Mild Training (Kahig, Palakad) - CALVEEX 1 tablet / head<br />
7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa gradas) - VIMINOLAK 1/2 tablet / head<br />
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Day 15 7:00 AM - Rest on Cording Area<br />
7:00 PM - Rest on Keeping Stalls - CYDROXO B-12 Inject 0.5cc / head<br />
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Day 16 4:00 AM - Last Sparring - CALVEEX 1/2 tablet / head after sparring<br />
7:00 AM - Rest on Cording Area<br />
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Day 17 9:00 AM - Delouse -WASH OUT shampoo<br />
12:00 NN - Rest on Limbering Pens - VIMINOLAK 1/2 tablet / head<br />
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Day 18 4:00 AM - Mild Training (Kahig, Palakad)<br />
12:00 NN - Rest on Cording Area<br />
7:00 PM - Lighting (Pailaw sa Gradas) <br />
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Day 19 4:00 AM - Mild Training (Palakad sa Gradas) - REDGEL Forte 1 Caps/ head<br />
7:00 PM - Rest on Keeping stalls, drop every for hours (check droppings)<br />
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- Pailaw sa Gradas - LDI B-12 1 tablet per head<br />
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Day 20 9:00 AM - Rest on Keeping stalls - BEE POLLEN 1 tablet per head<br />
- Drop every 4 hours and check droppings<br />
6:00 PM - CYDROXO B-12 Inject 0.5cc / head<br />
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Day 21 FIGHT DAY ----- Goodluck! <br />
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Please take note that this is just a pointers and there might have necessary adjustments to be done. This is because we need to fit it to the current weathers, so I suggest to be more observant with your fighters.<br />
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I will probably try the last 10 days for hackfight this coming saturday July 13, 2013. I hope this will work, wish me luck guys.</div>
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Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-38272259779971557912013-07-03T04:26:00.000-07:002013-08-14T02:48:22.823-07:00Gamefowl Bloodline: The White Hackles100% of white hackles are straightcomb, red eyes & in medium station. They are yellow red 90% or spangled 10%, cocks with pumpkin or mustard colored hackles.<br />
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The Michael Kearney whitehackles are from Kildare Ireland, his favorite strains were breezy breasted, light red with yellow legs, white under hackles, broad shoulder and compactly made cock. The white hackles are medium in weight, around 2.0 to 2.4kg. They are the most beautiful cocks sent by settlers in America and breed by certain Michael Kearney in 1879.<br />
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White hackles are deadly cutting cocks that fight from any position due to their agility or shiftiness. Cocks are strong, hard hitting and are good at cutting down the cock. They are best cross to Lacy <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/06/gamefowl-bloodline-roundheads.html">roundhead</a>, Kelso and sweater x <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/08/what-is-best-hatch-gamefowl-for-you.html">hatch</a>. American whitehackles are compose of Morgan and Lowman genetic line which also came from Kearney. They have deep game and break high in the air. They are known to their power and devastating legs kick.<br />
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The Irish whitehackles looks like the American version with white in wings and tail and come only with white legs. It breaks high in the air, some as high as 6ft. and very deadly during their first buckle and equally deadly when they land in the ground.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-90626874655338408732013-07-02T03:40:00.000-07:002013-07-02T20:38:31.001-07:00Gamefowl Bloodline: The BrownredsBrownreds are dark red in color, straight comb or peacomb, some have black tipped hackle feathers, feet are speckled with dark spots and some have dark legs. Legs exhibit jerking motions during shuffles.<br />
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They are multiple shufflers and known for their speed. Varieties of brownred includes Sid Taylor, Roy Grey, Wingate, Mcrae, Black Bonanza, Melsims, Racey Mugs and Joe Sparks.<br />
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<b>Wingate Brownred<br />By: Full Drop</b></div>
<br />1924 Joe Wingate laid aside his life's work and joined his ancestors. From that time on the once great family of fighting cocks that he had built decined. Though many may boast of having them today, old timers know that the claims have little or no foundation.<br /><br />Back in 1870, Wingate brought over from north of Ireland a single comb strain of chickens. In color they were mostly brown red, some showing ginger color and all showing dark legs and hazel eyes. The hens were sharp and stylish looking a dark brown or ginger some showing straw neck feathers. They were medium stationed and many grew spurs. One of the Irish hens was a favorite of Joe's . He had her set up and mounted when she died. This mounting hen is in existence today but looks nothing like the hens of the so-called wingates you see in these later days.<br /><br />The cocks of this family were not big cocks being in condition 5.4 or under, brown or ginger red, dark legs and hazel eyes. Broad backed and not heavy, though strong boned. They were single stroked cocks fast and strong in the mix-up not high flyers, rushing wild hitting cocks they now want to call Wingates. Did Wingate add any new blood to the above family? Of course he did he added the blood of an English hen he brought over, a mahogany colored hen with hazel eyes and dark lead colored legs. He bred this hen under the Irish cock and then bread some of those cross back into the original line. The infusion of the English hen `s blood increased the poundage until off and on a cock would weigh 6.2 or 6.4.<br /><br />Holly Chappell enters the picture, Chappell while down in Alabama on one of his trips to the south got hold of a standout cock and brought him home. He bread him over his hens that were understood to be north Briton and brown red crosses. Wingate and Chappell were friends, wingate got one of the cocks out of this cross and bred him over a brown red hen. After reducing the cross some more, he put the blood of the Chappell line into the Irish family. That is the layout of the Wingate Irish brown reds as the old-timers up here in the hills recall it.<br /><br />Original info is from this website: <a href="http://crowbotgamefowl.com/Histories%20Of%20Game%20Fowl%20Gamefowl/Wingate%20Brownred.htm">http://crowbotgamefowl.com/Histories%20Of%20Game%20Fowl%20Gamefowl/Wingate%20Brownred.htm</a>Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-13978112037609659132013-06-25T22:14:00.002-07:002016-11-05T15:51:36.147-07:00Gamefowl Bloodline: The RoundHeads<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<u>The Boston RoundHead</u></h3>
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They always comes out peacomb, majority are yellow legs but they also have white legs. Red eyes, wheaten or pale yellow hackle, medium to high station, an average weight of 2.0 to 2.4 kg. Boston or Allen rounhead, excepts sometimes the boston roundheads exhibit black spurs. The origin is an oriental fowl, either from india or pakistan and they mature early in about 10 months old.<br />
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The old time roundheads are most suitable for long heel knife. They are smart, side stepping, an agile heads up fighters, they could fight in the ground and in the air. Roundheads are aggressive, fast fighting, feet out and deadly, sure cutting cocks. They have strong and devastating leg power specially in the first buckle.<br />
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Roundheads cross exceptionally well with white hackles, hatches, Lew greys, Murphy, Madigin grey and <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/06/gamefowl-bloodline-kelsos.html">Kelso</a>. Roundheads includes, boston roundheads, lacy roundheads from Garry Gilliam, Marion Rose, Rey Alexander, Allen and Bruner.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-83235916582615469902013-06-25T19:56:00.002-07:002016-11-05T15:52:21.279-07:00Gamefowl Bloodline: The Kelsos<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<b>Cardinal Club Kelso</b><b> </b></h3>
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Majority of kelso are straight comb, usually white legs but they also have yellow legs, 70% - 30%. They come from many lines, Judge Wilkins Typewriter Blue, Smith Austin <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/06/gamefowl-bloodline-roundheads.html">Rounheads</a>, Tom Morphy Whitehackle, Yankee Clipper Red and cross between whitehackle and claret. They can break high with good timing, high station with sleek legs. Originated by <u><b>Mr.Walter Kelso</b></u>. <br />
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Morgan and Kearney white hackles are high station with white leg, straight comb. They have a lot of power, deep game bird and breaks medium height in the air than the hatch which a grounder. Good breaking ability or Salto, they have broader chest than clarets. This genetics bloodline is also in the stocks of Cardinal Club, Bob Howard, JC Bible, John O'Fowler, and Curtis blackwell.<br />
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Check out the history of this fowl at <a href="http://www.ultimatefowl.com/wiki/index.php?title=Kelso">http://www.ultimatefowl.com/wiki/index.php?title=Kelso</a>.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-82640449971329097472013-06-23T07:11:00.003-07:002013-06-23T07:29:50.651-07:00The Clarets Gamefowl History<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<u><b>The making of Claret</b></u></h3>
In a recent article in one of the magazines, the theory was presented that the White Dominique was infused into the Clarets.<br />
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The best way to check white fowl is to mate one with a strain that produces black females. If Dominique is in the blood, it will show quickly. In fact I have had fowl shipped me; the shipper stating he had Clarets which did not have the proper appearance for other than white color, it being not the regular color for a Claret, which is different from any other white. I have tested them in single matings and never found one of them to be a true Claret.<br />
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The first chicks to appear showed Dominique characteristics when crossed on a Shuffler hen. It is amusing to note how many think they have Clarets, conscientiously believing they have the real stuff, for they don’t know that they don’t know. Any one who knows the fowl can test, in a few moments’ sparring whether it is real or not. Clarets fight differently. They fly into a cock with no beak hold, their heels pointed as an expert swordsman points a rapier. They don’t want to bite their opponent, just want to measure the distance and kill him.<br />
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A Claret cannot be produced synthetically. Many honestly believe they have created the Madigin fowl by crossing darked-colored red fowl in some manner to get wine red chickens but they do not produce the true fighting qualities of the Claret at all. Clippers originally were 50 per cent Claret. Even Clippers, from true Clarets, will produce an occasional white.<br />
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In my opinion, there are few Clarets now extant and less than half a dozen breeders who own a pure Claret, unless they have recently procured them from one of the few breeders of the true stock.<br />
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An expert has almost the feel of the true fowl. As one prominent breeder used to say: “They go together like an accordion.” They down have hard bodies; have lot of feathers, are frail chickens except in leg and wing power; but have more kick than anything their weight; are intelligent, realizing their killing prowess is in that kick and that their beaks are primarily to feed themselves. They watch and feint to get their opponent out of position, then fly into him to tear him all to pieces without getting a scratch themselves, if possible.<br />
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There are extenuating circumstances often even caused by their handlers if they do not understand their handling. Their intelligence goes to the brood yard. They are aristocrats of the chicken specie. Rarely ever will you have one that will fight females. They chatter, talk and are perfect feathered gentlemen. If you have loose hens running around the coops, the outside hens will stay around the yard with a Claret cock in it. Some of the old fashioned strains are the bourgeois of the feathered tribe.<br />
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For four generations the family of the writer of this article has owed and admired spirited horses, dogs, and fowl. As far as one hundred years back, one ancestor kept game fowl at his slave cabins on his plantation. We were a family of attorneys and politicians and law makers, but the obsession for spirited chickens seemed to be perpetuated traditionally.<br />
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From the deepest research, experience and association with this strain of aristocrats of all game fowl, in this writer’s opinion, which of course may have little value, the Clarets, while thought to have been produced accidentally, were amply prepared to produce the greatest of all modern fowl.<br />
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It is a matter of common knowledge that a pair of fowl were casually thrown into a barn, the female stole her nest, raised nine stags and three pullets, they coming very regular, all deep claret-wine color, hence the name.<br />
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It was not entirely accidental that they were endowed with superior fighting ability, for on both sides, particularly on the female side, a pedigree of superior fowl existed. Her blood came from the best on both sides of the globe, carefully and intelligently produced by men who were past masters. The mother was a Herman B. Duryea Whitehackle whose sire won 19 battles, 14 of them in hands of Michael Kearney and 5 in England and Ireland for the Earl of Cromwell.<br />
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The sire of the Clarets, according to this writer’s research, was produced from a gray cock that fought at about 4.02. This particular cock belonged to a comparatively unknown boy at that time (in cocking circles) who I understand brought the cock to Mr. Deans to fight for him. Deans fought the cocks in good company several times. He won in such a creditable manner that Mr. Deans procured the cock for his own and then bred him to one of his good red hens, heavy in Mahoney blood. Mahoney lived with Mr. Deans for some time and died at his home. This produced the red cock that became the “daddy of the Clarets.”<br />
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Any of you have bred a light gray cock on fowl with white undercolor such as Whitehackle may have had the same experience as I; that a gray crossed on that sort of fowl might produce white birds, the gray being so near the white in color.<br />
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The father of the sire of the Clarets was a gray cock, the daddy of the Clarets being the only red out of a clutch containing six stags, the remaining five being gray. The white did not present itself immediately. The wine color was first, then gray, then some whites. The gray, I understandwere among the first grays that Mr. Madigin ever owned. The grays fought like Clarets, which of course they were. Then came the whites which went back to the combination of Whitehackle blood and the blood of the Deans gray cock, which cock contained blood of Gilman Grey-Mansell pyle with other combinations.<br />
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Mr. Madigin liked the white color which was a beautiful ( what I call) , magnolia or pinkish white. The stags invariably showed a buffbrassback, which never occurs in any other color of white fowl. In fact, some of the chicks when hatched come almost pink.<br />
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In later years, I have heard that Mr. Madigin crosses some other white blood into his Clarets as the pure ones were getting small and inbred. If he did so it was entirely his own business as he was obligated to no one to perpetuate any fowl or color. He wanted a winner and liked those that looked well.<br />
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So far as runners were concerned, the Claret is one of the most sensitive and high-strung fowl. Coming from a long line of sensitive ancestry, particularly on the mother’s side they have definite characteristics. Just as a peacock, when he losses his feathers, will hide from his own females because he is so completely distressed, so will a game cock. The higher-strung the more sensitive and rightly so. It is sex and pride that makes him fight and he is at a disadvantage. Some of the gamest of bull dogs will carry their tails between their legs a good part of the time. A fight for them is serious for it means victory or death; a situation of which they are constantly aware. One who does not recognize the high spirit of the Claret fowl should never own one.<br />
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There is a story in circulation that Mr. Madigin bred a yard of fowl intentionally “dunghilled.” He trusted most of his friends with whom he was associated in horse breeding and let them have some of his good fowl as they were not competitors in cockfighting. On the other hand, he felt that some of his chicken friends were not as loyal as they could have been in keeping his fowl as his property and origination. It is told that he distributed some of his synthetic fowl to certain individuals to cure them of the practice of bothering him for cocks, breeding them back and selling them later as “pure Clarets.”<br />
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To scatter his best fowl promiscuously to those who would breed them back would have destroyed his opportunity to win as he would have been in competion with his own ability as a breeder. Although the general opinion, is that the hen produced the greater percentage of fighting prowess, it depends on the stamina of bother parents. As unusually strong cock on a weak female with predominantly produce more of the male progeny’s qualifications.<br />
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My theory is that the white fowl were first produced naturally from the blood of the gray cock owned by Mr. Deans and that the mother of the Clarets with the white under color of the Duryea Whitehackle.<br />
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To this day, in breeding straight white Clarets, (which cannot be continued long as the feathers get too brittle and they get somewhat weakened; it is better to breed back to the dark colors) one will get an occasional gray feather and the first Clarets were bred 40 years ago. In my opinion, no outside blood was put in the Clarets except from two cocks from Mr. Marsh, strong in Lowman Whitehackle blood until 1935. The original white Clarets were a natural production.<br />
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Original Source: <a href="http://www.sabong.net.ph/forum/showthread.php?t=7185">http://www.sabong.net.ph/forum/showthread.php?t=7185</a> Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-87865015187828778042013-06-23T07:08:00.002-07:002013-06-25T19:57:44.689-07:00Gamefowl Bloodline: The Clarets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Pure Madigin Claret</b></div>
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Clarets are straight-comb and black breasted. They are usually comes in wine red, wings and tails have white streaks, medium to high station, legs are usually white 80%, medium in weight 1.9 to 2.3 kilogram, brood back and in compact built. Clarets are high breakers, accurate cutters, single strokers and deep game. They are fast and clever, hard hitter and aggressive.<br />
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For more info about clarets history, <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-clarets-gamefowl-history.html">click here</a>.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-88923621780346045582013-06-21T10:54:00.002-07:002016-11-05T15:53:02.897-07:00Gamefowl Bloodline: The Lemon<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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A blending of a blue face hatch, white hackle and <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/06/gamefowl-bloodline-clarets.html">clarets</a>. They could be straight comb or peacomb, more on the medium or low station and light yellow red in color. 70% are yellow legged and 30% have white legs, comes out with lemon hackle. They are known to be an accurate cutter with good timing, it is regarded as an intelligent bird with weaving ability. It can be fought in as is in their current genetic make up and also blends well with Kelso and particularly the hatch strain of gamefowl. A straight comb lemon is 1/2 sandy hatch, 1/4 claret and 1/4 Kearney white hackle. A pea comb is 1/2 McLean hatch and 1/2 clarets.<br />
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The most well-known lemon bloodline in the Philippines is the <b>Lemon 84</b> which was Originated by the legend Paeng Araneta, Lemon 84 has become the base bloodline used by most Bacolod breeders. Until presently, this line is still winning. Basically from the Hatch-Butcher-<a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/06/gamefowl-bloodline-clarets.html">Claret</a> blends of the late Duke Hulsey, Paeng has been able to create subfamilies from the original stocks.<br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">advertisement</td></tr>
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<br />
Lemon 84 (called as such because the original brood cock had leg-band number 84) comes lemon hackled, pea-combed or straight-combed, yellow and green-legged. Although lacking in gameness, Lemon 84 makes up for it with its almost automatic, instinctive and precise sense of timing when it clips the opponent in mid-air and throws his fatal punches or counter-punches. This is its most sought-after trait despite its medium or low station.Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-44797241217472151122013-06-18T08:05:00.000-07:002017-01-28T14:15:31.508-08:0021 DAYS THUNDERBIRD POWER TO WIN CONDITIONING KEEP<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><b>Bacterial Flushing using <u>Vetracin Gold Capsule</u> and Deworm
using <u>Thunderbird Strongard</u> before starting 21 day keep.</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFpkdZ3cerZ2tJgmdzC4y0oPfvdFa0pIt7HzlnpOzc8ldJHjSKOcvsRC7XHCEkIAE1z69I_I9R5QSd8q9mWDdeutJr7l5nRD2-2l1pf_VELWUgQzFBa3OUkjiMoa_PbjwnpoVms-HwVTgB/s1600/13879415_1741225596153171_8821548821986621095_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFpkdZ3cerZ2tJgmdzC4y0oPfvdFa0pIt7HzlnpOzc8ldJHjSKOcvsRC7XHCEkIAE1z69I_I9R5QSd8q9mWDdeutJr7l5nRD2-2l1pf_VELWUgQzFBa3OUkjiMoa_PbjwnpoVms-HwVTgB/s320/13879415_1741225596153171_8821548821986621095_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>DAY</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span> 1: Give One caplet of Ganador Max (Noon
time)</div>
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2: Delouse using Thunderbird Pusham</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
3: Inject 0.5cc of Bexan XP after
feeding</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
4: Give One caplet of Ganador Max (Noon
time)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">DAY <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>4 to 6</b></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>- Fifteen minutes scratching at 4:00 am and
then back to cord area for morning feeding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>- Give 1 caplet of Rovistress after the
exercise between 9:00-10:00 am.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>- Put them in flypen at 9:00 am-3:00 pm, then
back to cord area for afternoon feeding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>7: Give
One caplet of Ganador Max (Noon time)</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">DAY <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>8 to 14</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>- Fifteen minutes scratching at 4:00 am and
then back to cord area for morning feeding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>- Give 1 caplet of Rovistress after the
exercise between 9:00-10:00 am.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>- Put them in flypen at 9:00 am-3:00 pm, then
back to cord area for afternoon feeding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>10: Give
One caplet of Ganador Max (Noon time)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
11: Inject 0.5cc of Bexan XP after
feeding</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
13: Give One caplet of Ganador Max (Noon
time)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
15: Delouse using Thunderbird
Pusham</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
16: Give One caplet of Ganador Max (Noon
time)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
17: Inject 0.3cc of Bexan XP after
feeding</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
18: Propel with lights and loud
sounds like they were inside the cockpit arena.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">DAY <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>19 to 21 – Carbo-loading period</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span> - Reduce pellets and gradually increase corn</div>
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- Place them in their resting stall
covered with dark color clothes.</div>
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- Limber to check droppings every 3
hours.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
- Avoid giving medicines/vitamins
during this period.</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://buildingchickencoopsguide.com/?aff=d31d9hv1lgqrcl9wg8r99oft90" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img src="http://buildingchickencoopsguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cc428x60.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">advertisement</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-82829875836841794362013-06-01T19:28:00.004-07:002016-11-05T15:54:33.454-07:00What Will Be The Right Age To Fight Gamecocks?<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45}" id="fbPhotoPageCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">"<b>Right Age To fight Gamecocks</b>"<br /> By Jimto - <a data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=100003800813043&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A0%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/angelo.e.faller?directed_target_id=0" id="js_3">Sabungero</a></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/tKmTcGC3Sng?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45}" id="fbPhotoPageCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45}" id="fbPhotoPageCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><br />
When you ask sabungero people what is the right age to introduce
gamecocks to fighting, you will get various answers. Some of them
especially small backyard breeders will say 9 months, others will say as
early as six months they should be trained, while there are also those
that believe fighting cocks should be ready for a pit fight when they
rea<span class="text_exposed_show">ch 18 months old.<br /> <br /> The
approach will actually vary according to the orientation, scientific
assessment and well, belief. If you will ask an expert cocker with a
gamefarm, some of them would say 2 years old would be best while there
are also those who would say 30 months old is the best. So what then is
the right age for a fighting cock to be introduced to the rigors of
training and fighting?<br /> <br /> To answer this question, it is
important to bear in mind that a rooster is guided by its instincts to
fight. This instinct to fight starts at a very young age of even three
months. It is part and parcel of their genetics to fight and we just
have to harness their full potential to carry the same instinct up to
the pit.<br /> <br /> To believe that a rooster barely in its stag age can
already have the instinct to die in a fight is not always accurate. A
six month old rooster must not be introduced to intense sparring
sessions because it still has to develop that courage that only a mature
cock can possess.<br /> <br /> Try to spar a six month old with a two year
old cock and chances are after getting several heavy blows, there is a
big chance the youngling will run away. The beating is just too much so
its instinct to fight will wither.<br /> <br /> Once a stag learns
that he can run away as an option, he might take this idea up to old
age and you might end up seeing your injured aged cock running away and
refuses to peck even if the opponent is already dead just because it got
hurt. I’ve seen this many times even in big cockpits. it is the height
of embarrassment to be called as a breeder with a gamecock bloodline fit
for a marathon competition.<br /> <br /> What is important then is to
develop the fighting ability, endurance, and gameness of the cock
starting from a young age of six months. The approach must be gradual
and not exhaustive especially in terms of sparring. As they age, it will
be second nature to them and the courage to carry on the fight till
death will be developed. Even if the bloodline is said to have deep
gameness, it must still be tapped. It is there alright but you have to
bring it out to its fullest potential.</span></span></span><br />
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Now, as to the question
of what age is the best to fight gamecocks, to answer it directly, is
from the time they reach two years old. From two to three years old,
they are at their fiercest and strongest. Intelligence also becomes part
of the equation if your fighting cock has the age. They haveve been
trained to spar and fought with different breeds and from there you can
watch their development from the time they started out in training till
the time they are ready for the real fight.<br /> <br /> A
fighting cock that did not exhibit strength and improvement in fighting
form after more than one year of training is not a good sign. At an old
age, and given the many sparring sessions that they went through, they
should have learned at least based on instinct what to do to hurt their
opponent more. At any rate, some of the initial signs of fighting style
will also be there even when they age so you can already determine early
on what to do with them.<br /> <br /> So the older they are, the better.
This is because gamecocks owners will also try to age their roosters
before they fight them. You are at an extreme disadvantage if you will
use a stag to fight an aged cock with all other things being equal like
weight and height.</span></span></span>Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-85255287515271120722013-04-03T06:38:00.000-07:002013-04-03T06:38:43.231-07:00Priming Breeding Materials (Broodstock)After <a href="http://gamefowl101.blogspot.com/2013/03/proper-selection-of-breeding-materials.html">selections of breeding materials</a>, we are now going to prepare/prime them so they will be ready for mating. It is very important that both breeding materials are being prime before they will be mate to each other so we can make sure that they will produce healthy eggs/chicks later. Priming breeding materials is usually started by delousing and deworming. As many of us knows that deworming causes often stress with them, so this is the time that we need to give them vitamins like B-complex and more.<br />
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Here's another tips from sir Jap Gagalac (Priming your Broodstock).<br />
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<br />Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8283626878722273178.post-72763797127474546032013-03-26T06:56:00.002-07:002013-03-26T06:56:44.907-07:00Proper Selection of Breeding MaterialsTo be more successful in breeding gamefowls it is very important to know how to properly select the breeding materials. We have to find some of the qualities on both the broodcock and broodhen so that we could end up with the best offspring as possible.<br />
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Here are some of the tips that I found from <u><b>Jap Gagalac</b></u> on how to properly select breeding materials.<br />
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<b>Selecting Broodcock (Pagpili ng magandang Broodcock)</b></div>
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<b>Selecting Broodhen (Pagpili ng tamang inahen)</b></div>
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Feel free to share your thoughts on this post. Thanks</div>
<br />Jun M.http://www.blogger.com/profile/00282982164947965094noreply@blogger.com0